Day 1 (12/18): Tokyo
We typically like to allow our guests to familiarize themselves with how grand Tokyo is on their first day. We also don't like to bombard people with too many activities on their first day. We try to keep it relatively simple. The activities that we have planned for this day are a visit to Tokyo SkyTree, so that you can see how massive, and endless Tokyo truly is. After that, we wanted to arrange a traditional night-time dinner on a yakatabune. A yakatabune is a riverboat, but the interior is similar to what you would see inside of an older Japanese house. The flooring is tatami, and the tables are also low to the ground. This is something that is often enjoyed in the by Japanese people during special events. Dinner on these boats is typically tenpura, and sushi.
Activities:
- Tokyo Sky Tree visit
- Dinner on a yakatabune (Tokyo Bay area)
Day 2 (12/19): Tokyo
I would like to arrange a trip to the manmade island in the center of Tokyo Bay, to visit a TeamLab digital art exhibition. TeamLab is such a unique experience. There aren't many places on Earth that are like it. They have different installations all across the country, but the one that I have in mind is a semi-tactile experience here in Tokyo. I've included a picture of it in the gallery below.
I want there to be some kind of food experience for this day as well. I've narrowed it down to two places. One is an excellent steakhouse in Ginza with A5 cuts of wagyu from different regions in Japan. They prepare the food on a teppan grill in front of you, and it is a very purist steakhouse. There aren't many sauces or things to cover the steak in. It's just salt and pepper. The other idea was to include a cooking lesson for this day, but I think that it may be a bit much for a single day as most people tend to spend a very long time at the TeamLab installations.
When we spoke on the phone you mentioned that you wanted to get a glimpse into the anime/goth/otaku culture in Tokyo. There really isn't too many places to do that other than Akihabara. I didn't get the sense from our conversation that this was something that you wanted to really delve deeply into, and so I would like to plan a couple hours of time to spend here, but with a guide that knows the area properly. Akihabara is such an interesting place. The world's largest electronic store is down the street from the train station. The streets are completely filled with manga, anime, and game stores, and there are idol groups that regularly perform at various cafes and shops here. It is like Mecca for the 'otaku' culture. I'd like to get a guide that can take you guys to a maid cafe, show you some of the more interesting stores here (there is a porn 'pagoda' by the station), and also get you guys to see one of the idol performances and give you some proper history of the area and its fashion as well.
Activities:
- Guided tour of Akihabara
- TeamLab Borderless
- Wagyu steak dinner (tentative addition)
Planner's Note: So, hear me out. When we spoke during our initial call, you rated the TeamLab digital art space kind of in the middle. Not really very high, but not really very low. I am going to tentatively place it in this itinerary, for a few reasons. The main one is because the juxtaposition of this experience to the ones you will experience later on in Yamagata provide an insight into how extremely varied Japan as a nation can be. They are almost opposite ends of the spectrum. Also, I don't think I do this experience justice when I'm explaining it to people. Everyone that I've sent here has absolutely loved it, but again, if it is something that you feel as though won't be enjoyable, please let me know and we can look at alternatives.
Day 3 (12/20): Tokyo
(free day for exploration)
Planner's Note: I think that a visit to Nikko is an excellent day trip, and if you are not sure what to do on this day, please let me know. I've mentioned it in a note written on day 6, but the only reason for not putting Nikko in this itinerary is that you will be spending a fair amount of time in Yamagata, which is very rural and so I wanted to try to maintain a balance for this itinerary so that you don't get bored with being in the country too much. The typical day that we plan for Nikko looks something like this (taken from another itinerary we've previously planned):
Nikko is just north of Tokyo, and the best way to get there is by train. There is a train that actually has a private cabin (which is pretty rare for Japan), and it's the most enjoyable way to watch the landscape change from modern, to countryside. Nikko is the resting place for the shogun who unified Japan. There is a shrine there in his honor, and it by far the most ornate of any shrine I've seen in the country (I briefly spoke about this with you on the phone). The first half of this day is best spent with a knowledgeable guide who can give you all of the history of Nikko, and the shrines so that you can appreciate it best. The shrine itself is planted right in the middle of a large cedar forest, which only adds to its majesty. After that, the next stop is more lighthearted. The open-air, Edo-era museum/theme park, which isn't located too far from the shrine. I love visiting here, and they usually have to kick us out, because we typically stay until closing hours. There is sooo much to do, see and learn while visiting. There are impromptu sword fights, hidden ninjas in the streets, areas that teach you about the crafting process of katanas (it is insanely complex), and even stations where you can try your hand at creating traditional Japanese crafts. It's a lot of fun.
As transportation in the area can be very complicated, we would like to arrange a private car for you and your guide on this day. We would also like to make dinner arrangements for the both of you when you return to Tokyo.
Activities:
- Visit to Toshogu Shrine (guided)
- Visit to Edo open-air museum/theme park
- Private compartment train (based on availability)
Day 4 (12/21): Nagano - Shibu Onsen
Today is all about skiing and having fun on the slopes. There is a ski park near the onsen where you can spend the day. We can arrange for a ski instructor to accompany you if you haven't been before, but this ski park has a multitude of different items for you to enjoy the slopes, even if you are not interested in skiing or snowboarding. They have snow 'scooters', sleds, snow bikes, and an assortment of other ways to enjoy the snow. After which, returning to the onsen for a nice hot soak is the best way to relax after this day.
The history of Shibu as an onsen retreat stretches back at least a thousand years. There are nine public onsen spread out all across the town. Each of them is purported to bestow a specific type of blessing to the bather. Many visitors here try to visit all nine while here for good luck.
Activities:
- Skiing lesson or a lighthearted fun day at the snow park
Planner's Note - The slopes that we have in mind are for beginners, however if you guys are experienced skiers we can easily alter this to accommodate your skill level.
Day 5 (12/22): Nagano
I chose Nagano for its onsen, and for the monkey hot springs that are famous in this area. The area also has very nice traditional ryokan inns, many of which include a small onsen on their grounds, if you don't want to visit a public one (will remove the worry about being let in since you have tattoos). Something else that is important when staying at a ryokan is the kaiseki dinner service. It can be compared to a multi-course meal, but is packed with really delicious Japanese staples (sashimi being at the core of it, typically). I think that it is important to experience one here or in Kyoto, so that you will have a base to compare the course meal that you have when you visit Tsuruoka, later on in your trip.
There is a spot in the area called Jigokudani. Here you can see wild monkeys bathing in an outdoor natural hot spring, while hiking through the area. It is not a challenging hike at all, but I can arrange for the ryokan to be near the hot springs, so that you guys can hike directly to the location, if you wish. This day is meant to be for taking in the beauty of the natural surroundings in the area.
Activities/Experiences:
- Traditional ryokan stay
- Short hike
- Monkey hot springs
- Onsen
- Kaiseki Dinner
Day 6 (12/23): Nagano
(free day for rest or exploration)
Planner's Note: Although I've marked this day down as a free day, I do have some suggestions that I would like to run by you next time we speak. There are some really truly majestic shrines here that I think would make a good addition. The reason for not adding them is that I don't want to 'over-do' the traditional side with this particular itinerary. You'll be visiting some really special places that are very unique and historic while here, so I don't really want to give you too much of that side of Japan. If you feel as though you are up for it though and would prefer to have this day planned, please let me know. Also, there is a great place here that teaches Japanese calligraphy, which would be another good alternative if that is something that you'd be interested in.
Day 7 (12/24): Kyoto
Today we wanted to plan some more 'romantic' activities for you guys to celebrate your union. All of today's activities are slower paced, but relaxing, and dreamy.There is a beautiful valley river just outside of Kyoto, where there are teams of people who will take you down it on a 3-man boat. This is actually the river that many people used to travel between Osaka and Kyoto in bygone eras. One of the best ways of reaching the area is the beautiful open-air train that travels along the river to get you there.
It's a very nice way to start the day, and is super refreshing. You see a lot of deer along the river too, and there is a really cool boat that pulls up next to you guys (also a traditional boat) with a grill that sells octopus or squid, and beer. The ride is really relaxing and cozy. It ends in the Arashiyama district.
Tenryuji is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and has what is considered one of the most beautiful zen gardens in the entire nation. It's located in Arashiyama. The area that is known for its temples and shrines, and the picturesque bamboo thickets behind Tenryu-ji temple (I'm sure you've seen pictures of it without noticing... I'm going to include a picture of it below in the small photo gallery). I'd like to have this portion of your day guided, as it is always better to have someone who actually knows the location with you when visiting historic sites. There are so many temples and shrines that are worth visiting here, but one of my favorites is a small temple that rarely ever gets visited. It has hundreds of statues, and each of them was made by a completely different person. One of the former head monks decided that he would teach sculpting to anyone that visited the temple and wanted to learn (this was in the 80's, I believe). All of the sculptures are spread around the temple grounds, and because he gave his students carte blanche with their designs, you'll see some of the ojizou statues wearing headphones, and holding a walkman or other contemporary paraphernalia. It is a site that is unlike thing else in Japan.
I'd also like to use this day to arrange a tea ceremony for you guys as it is something that you mentioned you'd enjoy on our phone call. There is an excellent place here for that.
Activities:
- Open-air valley steam-engine train
- Hozugawa Kudari (traditional river boat ride)
- Traditional tea ceremony
- Arashiyama tour (with a guide)
- Tenryuji Temple Zen Garden
- Otagi Temple (temple with uniquely carved statues)
- Bamboo thicket visit
- Dinner reservation in Kyoto
Planner's Note - For this day, we wanted to reserve a spot at one of Kyoto's most famous banzai restaurants, that is set out in nature, to continue with the cozy, and romantic feel of this day. The restaurant is a platform of tatami mats that have been suspended on top of a river, and the food changes for every season. We thought it would be the perfect way to end this day, however it is slightly north of Kyoto proper, and so there may be a bit of rushing to get there. There are many other similar restaurants in the city that hover over the Kamogawa River (their location is walking distance from the hotel that we suggested), which also do banzai style meals as an alternative.
Day 8 (12/25): Kyoto
(unplanned day in Kyoto)
Planner's Note - I think that this day would be best experienced with a guide that would take you to the shrines and temples that are most important to you. You could visit them without a guide as well, but as previously mentioned, you get much more out of a visit when someone can explain the unique history of a particular location. I'd like to describe some of them to you so that we can narrow down the options. A day trip to Nara (just south-ish of Kyoto, and famous for the deer that roam the Todaiji temple grounds) is also a good choice for this day as well.
Day 9 (12/26): Osaka
Today is for visiting Osaka Castle. The ride back to Tokyo will be done via Japan's last, and only overnight sleeper train, so there currently isn't an accommodation planned for this day. I would very much like to consult with you guys to see what kind of activities you would like to experience on this day. to properly plan this day, as it is the only day that isn't fully planned as of now.
Day 10 (12/27): Ginzan Onsen
As you will have been traveling quite a lot before reaching here. I would like to leave this day completely open for you to enjoy the natural hot springs in Ginzan. Ginzan is the epitome of snowy and cozy.
Planner's notes: I'd like to note that the place that I have chosen for this location is the most modern ryokan in the area. I chose it as it will provide a nice contrast to the other more traditional ryokan that we've chosen for the other locations, and also because they have private onsen that can be used without the fear of being kicked out because of your tattoos. It is a very popular choice for this location, so I gave them a call just to see if they still had space for these two days. As of my last call (9/21) they have one room left on site.
Day 11 (12/28): Ginzan Onsen
There are two options for this day. When we spoke you mentioned that you guys were interested in visiting a fish market, and also possibly making sushi with the fish that was purchased. Toyosu in Tokyo is a very nice place to do that, however it is not very easy to get access to the inner market area where the auctions take place. Since you seemed very interested in Tsuruoka in general, I thought that a more intimate experience would be better for this particular activity.
Thus, the options that I would like to present are to:
- Go fishing with local fisherman to catch your own fish, or
- Visit a smaller local fish market with a chef who will help you pick out your own fish to cook with later on.
With either option you will be with a chef after the initial activity who will teach you how to prepare and cook your fish. It is really up to you whether you want to catch it yourself or if you want to simply go to a really nice market, where you can learn how to choose a good fish. The market is smaller and one of the benefits of choosing this over the larger market in Tokyo is that the fish here is fresh caught that day and never frozen.
Activities:
- Sea fishing off of the northwestern coast
- Visiting a local fresh fish market (with a chef)
- Learning how to prepare and cook fish (with a chef)
Day 12 (12/29): Tsuruoka
Today will take you to the capital of the prefecture for a sake tasting lesson and a pottery lesson. Ceramics have a massive importance in Japan. You guys will be at a small workshop to create your own Japanese-style ceramics, get to know some of the local artisans, and do a taste-testing of sake by local, small-batch breweries at a boutique.
You will also be guided through Heisenji Temple during your experience here. Although Tsuruoka is the only city in Japan with the UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy Award, Yamagata in general is known for its delicious fish, rice and sake. So I would like to use this day to slightly shift focus towards some of the reasons the region is the only place that has been given the award, especially since there are so many places in Japan that are worthy of it. There is a Japanese chef who has a French / Japanese fusion restaurant in Yamagata that is slowly gaining more recognition.
I wanted to mention here that for the Tsuruoka leg of your trip, you will be doing a shukubo stay at the base of Mt. Haguro. You can easily walk to the mountain from your lodging. The base of the mountain is ridiculously beautiful. There are a bunch of really small shrines dotted across a very majestic cedar forest. The views should only be more intensified by the snowfall.
Activities:
- Traditional Japanese pottery lesson
- Guided sake taste testing at a boutique
- French / Japanese fusion restaurant Pas Mal reservation (if desired)
Day 13 (12/30): Tsuruoka
Today is dedicated completely to the things that make Tsuruoka such a mystical place to visit. There is a market in Tsuruoka that celebrates the region's rich culinary history through small restaurants. It is called Foodever, and I thought that this would be a good place to start your day off with a good meal.
After that you guys will venture into the pristine nature of Yamagata alongside yamabushi monks and walk along their ancient training paths that have been in use for over a thousand years. I would like to introduce you both to the yamabushi traditions that have separated these mountain ascetics from the Buddhist and Shinto traditions of other places throughout Japan. Shugendo is the belief system that they practice, and although there are a few practitioners outside of this area, the majority of the people who practice this form of spirituality live within this region as the three sacred mountains of their belief system are all in the Tsuruoka region. After your meal, you will meet with a yamabushi who will take you on a hike of Mt. Kinbo while telling you about some of their practices and beliefs. In the gallery below you will see a photo of a man in a white garb called a 'shirosozoku'. This is something that you will both wear (depending on how cold it is), and do a short hike to learn about the history of this belief system.
This short 'training' program by the yamabushi of Mt. Kinbo will take participants up to the Kinbo Shrine and then to a waterfall at the end of a hidden trail. When you mentioned Koya-san on the phone, I thought that this experience may be a bit better as it still isn't something that many people know about, thus the experience is less "touristy", and more real in my opinion.
The matsuri festival on the 31st is a spiritual event related to this belief system. Thus, I do think that having some understanding or background information of how the yamabushi people live will impart a more grounded appreciation for the matsuri when you experience it.
After this has finished I would like to recommend my second restaurant for this area, Shinchaya. This is a tea house that is a great spot for a traditional Japanese course meal.
Activities:
- Foodever market for breakfast / lunch
- Spiritual hike with a yamabushi of Mt. Kinbo
- Dinner reservation at Shinchaya or other location that properly represents a Tsuruoka culinary experience
Day 14 (12/31): Tsuruoka
Today will be completely dedicated to the Shoreisai festival, however I wanted to make my last food recommendation for this day as well. Saikan is one of the ryokan that is actually on Mt. Haguro. The food served here not only perfectly exemplifies some of the reasons why Tsuruoka was chosen for the UNESCO award, but it also is an excellent example of shojin-ryouri. Shojin-ryouri is the vegetarian style of food that monks often eat during period of asceticism. The style is different from the vegetarian meals that you would have in Kyoto, or other places. There are heirloom vegetables that have been passed down through generations that are quite unique to this region, like the dadachamame variety of soybeans, and the gomadofu dish (sesame-flavored tofu served with ankake). Both of which can be had here. The matsuri festival activities will start around 3PM at the top of Mt. Haguro and go on throughout the night. I would suggest heading up slightly early and stopping here for lunch.
The Shoreisai Festival is one of Japan's oldest, and coolest, New Year's fire festivals! It has been taking place on New Year's Eve nearly every year for over a millennium at the top of Mt. Haguro. It is run in conjunction with the conclusion of the Winter Peak Ritual (Fuyu-no-mine-iri), in which two Yamabushi from the town pray for a bountiful harvest and prosperity over the course of 100 days. The festival itself is said to ward off a demon called Soranki as well, so there will be many events throughout the day dedicated to that ritual. At 3pm there is a ritual called Tsunamaki in which the straw effigy of Soranki is symbolically sliced dead. Here the straw Soranki is split into two giant mounds, and then some of the rope that made up Soranki is further cut into pieces about 50cm long that symbolize harvest mites. The Matsuhijiri (the two heads of the ceremony) then throw the harvest mites into the crowd. Be careful here as it can get violent! If you do manage to catch one, ask them to tie it so that it can be placed at the entrance to your house and used to ward off demons. If you didn't catch one, don't worry. You still have a chance to sumo wrestle someone for one!
The matsuri will end with the burning of an effigy that is meant to represent the demon, that will start towards the end of the year at 11PM, but there are many miniature events in between. Having a guide on this day will be helpful, but isn't entirely necessary. The day will be filled with food and sake as most matsuri are.
Activities:
- Shojin-ryouri meal at Saikan on Mt. Haguro
- Shoreisai Matsuri
Day 15 (1/1): Tokyo
Return to Tokyo for your flight back home.
